
How an Epoxy Garage Floor Job Runs
A garage job starts with a slab check: moisture test, crack and spall map and a look at any old coating. Then the floor is ground and vacuumed, repairs are filled and leveled, and the base coat, broadcast and topcoat go down in sequence. You park on it once the product’s cure schedule says the film is ready at that day’s temperature.
Attached Garages on 1970s and 1980s Houses
Roughly half of Wheaton’s homes were built in the 1970s and 1980s, and many have a garage sharing a wall and a door with the house. We grind with vacuum capture at the machine, seal off the house door and pick coatings inside the Illinois VOC limits, so dust and odor stay in the garage rather than drifting into the kitchen.
Detached Garage Coating Through the Winter
A detached garage with no heat follows the outdoor temperature closely, and its slab can stay cold for weeks. We plan these jobs around a stretch of mild weather or temporary heat that holds the slab in the product’s range, because a coating applied to a frozen floor never reaches full hardness.
Garage Slabs Without a Vapor Retarder
Wheaton adopted the 2024 International Residential Code by Ordinance O-2025-04 and left section R506 alone, so the exception in R506.2.3 that lets a garage slab skip a vapor retarder appears to stand. Moisture from the ground can therefore rise through the slab freely, which is why the test comes before the system is chosen.
Garage Moisture Testing Methods
Depending on the slab, we use an ASTM D4263 plastic sheet test as a quick screen, ASTM F1869 calcium chloride kits to measure vapor emission rate, or ASTM F2170 in-situ relative humidity probes drilled into the concrete. The numbers are compared against the coating maker’s limits and ASTM F710 guidance, and a high reading changes the primer.
Cracks, Spalls and Pitting in the Garage
Hairline cracks, spalled edges and salt pitting are mapped before grinding and filled with a repair compound that bonds with the coating. When a slab has heaved, broken into loose pieces or keeps moving, we say plainly that it needs replacement first, since a coating over a failing slab only hides the problem for a season.
What Brine and Rock Salt Do to Bare Concrete
Calcium chloride and rock salt carried in on tires soak into bare concrete, recrystallize as the floor dries and break the surface apart from within. Over a few winters that shows up as scaling and pitting near the door. A sealed, coated floor keeps the salt on top, where it can be squeegeed out instead of soaking in.
Cold-Weather Garage Coating
The Wheaton 3 SE weather station averages 128.2 nights a year at or below 32 degrees, with the median last spring freeze on April 27. Epoxy cures slowly or not at all on a cold slab, so an unheated garage in deep winter is booked for spring rather than coated in conditions the product cannot handle.
Hot Tire Pickup and Thin Coatings
A tire coming off a warm drive softens a thin coating and, as it cools, pulls the film away from the concrete. That is hot tire pickup, and it is the most common way a bargain floor fails. A ground slab, a 100% solids epoxy base and a hard polyaspartic topcoat give the floor enough thickness and bond to resist it.
Store-Bought Kits Versus Professional Systems
A hardware-store kit is usually a thin water-based epoxy over an acid-etched slab, and it can look good for a while. A professional system starts with diamond grinding, builds several coats to a stated thickness and finishes with a wear-resistant topcoat, which is the difference between a coating that peels and one that keeps its bond.
Epoxy Garage Floor Cost Factors
The price follows square footage, slab condition, the system chosen and the season. Removing an old coating, filling deep spalls or adding a moisture-mitigation primer each adds cost, while a solid color coat costs less than a full flake broadcast. Every one of those choices is itemized so you can compare quotes line by line.